James Bond is back – and he dresses like a geography teacher

Corduroy Massimo Alba Sloop Suit, £ 775, Mr. Porter

It’s reduced to the micro-fine lines known as needle-punched drawstring, which impart a soft texture rather than the usual grooved effect, and Bond’s is paired with a neat chambray shirt with a button-down collar. It is telling that No Time To Die costume designer Suttirat Anne Larlarb chose Alba; Bond has never worn the mark before, but Daniel Craig has, so it’s likely he wielded some influence.

There are two reasons why this works; the first is the location. Bond saw, among other things, causing his usual joyous chaos in the southern Italian town of Matera, and the sand color of the costume complements the ancient background. But Italian couture has always specialized in a kind of unstructured ease, especially in lighter shades, so the choice is on the arrangement with the decor.

The other is that corduroy is generally more sturdy and resilient, which makes sense for a super spy if you slip through fruit stalls and jump bridges (it was a quiet morning that day).

The choice also rings with a verve in contemporary male couture to soften things up in terms of fabric and color; beige tone and corduroy are more informal. And this isn’t the first time that the dress-savvy Mr. Bond has opted for suits on the brown side of the spectrum; Throughout Eon’s movie firmament, tones of tan and chocolate have often appeared in her wardrobe.


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